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BEAUTIFUL BODIES ~ Salon de la Lingerie 2018
By TINA WILSON
The queen of the bodysuit back in 92’ B.S. (before Spanx) was Donna Karan. Oh how I wish she was around to shake things up now like she did then. I had the great fortune to work on DK Intimates bodysuits and shapewear, to see her squeeze into them, to watch her drape them on the models, and to debate with her the merits of crotch snaps vs. no snaps for bathroom ease (a battle I lost btw).
It was a special time, when a few key brands were giving birth to the foundations of the bodysuit we know today. And while Donna’s influence still lingers, there are some noteworthy brands shaking things up and moving the bodysuit forward.
Salon de la Lingerietook place this past January in Paris at Porte de Versailles, and I was there.
In between Fashion Life Mag , wine soaked, sole and pate’ meals at trendy La Coupole and a few new favorites, I stayed dry from the daily downpours and saw some lovely lingerie. It was especially gratifying to visit certain booths and have them roll out the red carpet for us, to show us these beauties and let us ooohhh and ahhhh over them while drinking champagne. One event was theLise Charmelfashion show. The models strutted the bodysuit at its best, under sheer lace skirts, under leg baring silk crepe columns and by themselves. It was one of my favorites moments of the trip.
Midway into the three day show I was treated to a presentation fromLejaby. It was difficult to decide what to focus on, the line was exquisite. I decided on a bodysuit that dreams are made of, the lace used was the perfect combination of geo and floral, a personal favorite when it comes to lace patterns. I never like laces that are too prissy, I like a lace to have a bit of an “edgeâ€.Lejabyalso had some of the prettiest bras and bralets I’d seen, stay tuned in the coming month for my take on those!
Within the main venue there was an exhibit, called “EXPOSEDâ€. We were treated to this space within a space where newer brands were featured together. One of the bodysuit brand standouts wasMarika Vera.They did great new things with mesh, velvet and microfiber. I love when a brand takes traditional fabrics and makes them new again, breaking the rules. They had a “body†for every occasion, blurring the lines between, swim, RTW, and intimates. Check them out online, their tag line is “Take Back the Night†and I believe they will!
A not so quite “new†comer in “EXPOSED†wasTaryn Winters, who has garnered well-deserved attention in the past few years. Her beautiful hand at embellishment and sparkle is distinguishing her from imitators. Her pieces were delicate yet strong and commanded attention; no easy feat.
Last but by no means least wasKENTWOMAN, I adored their clean aesthetic, the silk with lycra seamed bralets, bodysuits and loungewear were clean yet detailed. It’s how I would dress if I had the body and the purse strings. There is nothing better than washed, buttery silk charmeuse against the skin.
The bodysuit is coming on strong, it was in the air and expect more and more brands to dabble in them. I hope this makes you consider one the next time you are looking for a special piece of intimate apparel. Next up…..the bralet, stay tuned and be well!
A special thanks to Andreas Heuttenhoelscher and Ellen Lewis.
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Tina Wilson began her career in intimate apparel graduating from Parsons School of Design after receiving a full scholarship. While in her first design job at Christian Dior Lingerie she was personally selected by as Head Designer to work on the launch of Calvin Klein Underwear, the legendary minimalist brand he created. Tina was and remains the only designer ever hired by Calvin Klein personally for this position.
Following 4 successful years at Calvin Klein, Tina joined the Josie Natori Company, where she became the designer for the new contemporary division. After 5 years with Natori, the opportunity arose to be Design Director for the launch of Donna Karan Intimates. Tina was selected by Donna Karan and worked for the licensee Wacoal America for the next 12 years, where she worked intimately with Donna conceiving, fitting, and merchandising her iconic bras, underwear, shape wear, yogawear and sleepwear.
She was the creator of Wacoal’s “Controlfreakâ€, a new concept of shapewear, designed and fit according to a woman’s body type. It is a patented concept committed to everyday comfort and is the first “custom fit†shapewear brand.
Since leaving Donna Karan Intimates at Wacoal, Tina has worked for the largest privately owned intimate apparel company in America, Komar/Carole Hochman designing many of their intimate brands, among them, Ralph Lauren, On Gossamer, Ellen Tracey, Donna Karan, Betsey Johnson, Oscar De La Renta and Lucky Brand. She is currently an independent consultant and partner in the company Marronage, specializing in fashion design and illustration.
Tina Wilson is a board member of the Underfashion Club, a non profit organization dedicated to awarding scholarships to FIT students in the intimate apparel field. She is known for her personal vision and her commitment to education in fashion.
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